War has broken out. I was in Jerusalem for the film festival presenting Song Of Songs. My first time in Israel, and I really managed to pick the date. The week since I have been back in London, the extent of the awfulness of violence on all sides is becoming more apparent day by day.
There’s really not a lot to say that hasn’t been said better, one way or another, by thousands of commentators. It’s hard for me to say much about it except by way of small and strange details. In Tel Aviv on my way to Jerusalem, a few days before the hostilities broke out in the north, I was put up by Michal Boganim, a talented documentary filmmaker (see her film Odessa Odessa). We went to the beach, but when I was about to cool myself in the waters, she told me about their little ‘problem’: suicidal jellyfish that wash up on the beach each year. With some irony, I asked whether they were Palestinian jellies. It seemed an omen of worse to come, something compounded by the fact that usually the medusae appear on the first of Av, the month of the solar/lunar Jewish calendar – a time associated with mourning and the destruction of the temples. This year, however, they’d come early.
Michal with the Jellyfish...
Jerusalem is an incredibly beautiful and troubling place, deeply diverse and scarred with a moral seriousness like nowhere else. I hadn’t realised how physically apparent the political and historical and religious lines of contestation were, overlaying each other horizontally and vertically. Everything and everyone you read about in the news is there, cheek by jowl, jostling for position, in the same few square miles, visible all at once from one of the hills or towers.

Blood moon rising over the cinematheque...
The festival was fantastic, with the matter-of-fact treatment of everyone as equals that is the hallmark of Israeli life. They showed the film twice. I’d been a little afraid of the reaction, particularly from the religious. But people were extremely engaged, challenged by the film and challenging in their questions.
Namedropping: at one party I chatted with Roman Polanski, and I’m sure my attempt at the aforementioned Israeli aplomb was entirely unconvincing. I found him to be a fellow back sufferer, and he gave me the number of his physio in Paris.

Lia van Leer is a superwoman, running this festival in tough conditions year after year. I think she’s in her 80s now and shows no signs of flagging. It’s an important festival for Israel and for Jews internationally. Above all they showcase politically engaged and challenging features and documentaries from diverse voices – Israeli and Palestinian and beyond - which might not otherwise get heard. The sad thing is that this year, after the withdrawal from Gaza, more tourists and more filmmakers were starting to return to the festival. There was a real optimism. But in the mere matter of days that I attended, things have radically changed for the worse.
Pic - producer Gayle Griffiths witnesses violence in the Old City. Luckily it's only between 6 year olds.